Nana: punk rock and Vivienne Westwood in the world of manga

How did Nana inspire fashionistas on TikTok while being on hiatus for almost 15 years?

Since the pandemic, the attitude towards anime and manga has changed. It is not associated with something childish or embarrassing anymore. The popularity of anime such as Attack on Titan and Jujutsu Kaisen has surprisingly turned more and more people into ‘otaku’, which is the Japanese description of people who have an intense interest in manga or anime.

As an old fan of romantic shoujo ani-mangas, I was surprised to see Nana inspired outfit videos all over my TikTok feed. Since middle school, I spent my free time watching shoujo anime. They were light, funny and targeted to a female audience. You could be laughing one moment and crying the next. For me, that was the mark of a good anime.

Yet, Nana was something completely different from ordinary ani-manga. It wasn’t just the plot that kept me glued to my screen, but the interesting fashion present throughout the entire series. Ai Yazawa, the author of the manga, was a former fashion student. This influenced the style throughout and the punk-inspired aesthetic.

The ani-manga tells the story of two girls called Nana, who coincidentally meet on the train to Tokyo and begin to share an apartment together. Even though both girls are named Nana, they are the absolute polar opposites of each other.

Nana Komatsu, known by the nickname Hachi, is a positive, naive hopeless romantic who engages in messy relationships. Her personality can be seen through her feminine looks mixed with Japanese Y2K harajuku style.

Nana Osaki on the other hand is the complete opposite of her roommate. She had a troubled childhood and is hardened and sarcastic. She is also the lead singer of a punk rock band, which is one of the main storylines.

On TikTok, I stumbled upon a video with music from Nana in the background, with the creator presenting several outfits based on the style from Nana. Excited to see if there was more, I followed the hashtag and ended up discovering thousands of videos dedicated to Nana. It was clear that the anime had a large online fanbase.

Most videos were fan edits of the series, but what intrigued me was the incredible fashion content. People were sharing their favourite looks from the manga and anime and then re-creating them. Some were dressing up like a certain characters. Others were happy to show their collections of Vivienne Westwood pieces, treating them like official merch.

“I get a lot of inspiration from the characters’ outfits. Every time I put on an outfit, I subconsciously find myself dressing based on one of the characters,” says Julie Hjerppe, known as @you.3.141 to her 85.3 thousand followers on TikTok.

Julie posts her daily outfits, thrifting hauls and outfit ideas based on movies and anime. Her first TikTok on ‘Nana-inspired outfits’ received so many views that she ended up making a series on each character. The 10-second videos get up to 200k views, where the comment section is flooded with excitement from Nana fans. Someone even commented: “I’m glad Nana is getting the recognition it deserves.”

For Julie, making TikToks about Nana is like paying tribute to her fashion inspiration. She says: “for me, specifically, the show inspired me to have fun with fashion. Nana Osaki is the one who made me feel more comfortable dressing both grunge and feminine at the same time.  She also made me super into plaid skirts, which are a huge staple in her own wardrobe.”

Though the plot does not revolve around the fashion industry, Nana is considered one of the most fashionable animes, remaining trendy and stylish for 15 years. The style of the ani-manga is filled with punk rock culture, and the punk aesthetic would not be complete without the Queen of Punk herself. Ai Yazawa merged the world of manga with designer Vivienne Westwood’s fashion in her work.

You can spot the British designer’s pieces in many of the main characters’ looks. She is mentioned in almost every volume of the manga, making the fans wonder if Nana is Ai Yazawa’s personal ode to Vivienne Westwood.

Leather jackets, tight corsets, plaid minis and enormous black boots – Nana’s style screams punk mixed with ‘femme fatale’. With edgy looks, she draws the line between her and the standard female characters of shoujo anime, whose outfits are often simple school uniforms and casual shirts paired with jeans.

For example, Nana Osaki wears various corsets that are inspired by the ‘Mini-Crini’ — a victorian dress with, as ladies from that century would think, a scandalously short crinoline.

The ‘Mini-Crini’ first appeared in the Autumn-Winter 1987/88 ‘Harris Tweed’ collection. Vivienne Westwood was the first designer of the 20th century to change the structure of the corset, allowing it to become a staple of modern wardrobes. To this day, such corsets have become Vivienne Westwood’s speciality.

“I love the fact that Nana Osaki specifically has a lot of recurring clothing pieces, which she continues to style in so many iconic ways,” says Julie. “She does a great job with what she has. This just goes to show that you really don’t need a huge wardrobe to look cool. I also really admire the way ani-manga shows how much accessorising can affect your outfit.”

This is true, as jewellery is an essential in all the main characters’ outfits. The character of Nana often wears the ‘Armour’ ring from Vivienne Westwood. It symbolises Nana’s desire to be protected from the external world and the problems that it contains.

Julie continued: “the fashion itself is so iconic in Nana. After all, it keeps inspiring people to feel confident. Personally, after watching Nana and trying out new styles because of it, I found a new way to look at clothes and I got into, specifically Vivienne Westwood. I also always used to think that I needed to dress one way, but Nana showed me that you can mix styles together.”

Another iconic Vivienne Westwood piece is Nana’s Rocking Horse shoes, first presented in the Autumn/Winter 1995 “Mini-Crini” collection. The British designer was inspired by traditional Japanese geisha shoes, ‘Okobo’, where the platform can be from 7 to 13 cm. These shoes were for geishas to not damage their kimono with dirt while walking.

Iconic for several reasons, Super Elevated Gillie heels were spotted in Nana as well. The extremely high heels were inspired by a ribbon-lace design from the 18th century. However, they became iconic for the incident that happened on the runway of the Autumn/Winter 1993/94 ‘Anglomania’ collection.

Naomi Campbell wore the 30.5 cm heel and fell during the show. That moment is still legendary in the fashion industry with the Super Elevated Gillie getting free product advertisement from it. Many celebrities were spotted wearing the shoes after the incident, and of course the character of Nana Osaki.

The male characters in Nana do not disappoint either. Shin Okazaki is one of the fashionable male characters present in the manga.

Shin’s transformation from a naive high schooler to the bass player of the punk band reflects in his appearance. Strong inspiration from punk culture comes from his desire to accept a new personality and finally leave his past behind.

Casual teenage clothes change into ripped t-shirts with vulgar slogans and costumes inspired by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s Spring/Summer 1976 collection. In 2003, the V&A displayed Vivienne Westwood’s iconic pieces, including the Bondage suit that as they described “borrows elements from army combat gear, the motorcyclist’s Belstaff and fetish wear, and was the archetypal Punk outfit popularised by bands like the Sex Pistols.”

Similar to Nana’s ‘Armour’ ring, Shin’s orb lighter necklace is another iconic piece. The orb is Vivienne Westwood’s famous logo created in 1986, which is still present in many designs today.

Ren Honjo is another fashionable character. Guitarist of the band Trapnest and Nana Osaki’s romantic interest in the ani-manga, with his hairstyle, clothes and mannerisms on the stage, he is inspired by Sid Vicious. Both Sid and Ren wear a padlock necklace. Vivienne Westwood’s husband Malcolm McLaren was the manager of the Sex Pistols, which is where the inspiration may have come from.

After all these years, Nana stays relevant without being promoted, as Ai Yazawa hasn’t appeared in the public eye for 15 years. Ai Yazawa put Nana on hold to focus on her health. However, since then, there have been no updates regarding the author and the manga.

Julie, as one of many dedicated fans, who even has a tattoo dedicated to Nana, says: “I feel like there’s a very specific connection between resonating with the story itself and getting into fashion. There’s something so raw about the series that keeps drawing people in, specifically the younger audience. When watching the series, I think it’s impossible not somehow to be influenced by fashion and punk culture.”

With Nana having no ending, fans are still holding out hope for a proper finale. But, considering the news of Vivienne Westwood’s death this year, their chances are most likely minimal with the main muse of Ai Yazawa not being present anymore. Despite this, Nana continues to be a fashion inspiration to many fans around the world.


Featured image by NANA © 1999 by Yazawa Manga Seisakusho/SHUEISHA Inc.

Jolene becomes heart of Shoreditch

Jolene is not just a bakery. It’s a whole community that connects people in Shoreditch with the help of delicious pastries and cups of coffee.

Shoreditch is known for being a vibrant, artsy and grungy part of London. The tourist version includes techno nightclubs that are packed even on Thursday, authentic coffee shops where a limited variety of milk alternatives is considered a crime, and vintage stores with a price tag the same as in Selfridges.

Amongst of all that, there is a different side of Shoreditch that its residents really appreciate. I’ve been living here for two years, but only recently have I discovered the place that makes you feel ‘included’ over a cup of coffee.

Walking along the high street can get overwhelming. There is always a noise coming from the heavy traffic. It makes you put your guard up and look both ways. In such a chaotic area, even the air feels polluted. You don’t want anything at this point except to find a place to catch a break.

The corner of Redchurch Street feels like a portal to another dimension. The surrounding chaos shifts to calmness the same way as leaves hanging on the trees slow down after the scary storm.

That sudden change comes from a tiny bakery with terracotta-painted brick walls and big windows, where you can catch a glimpse of pastries covered in icing sugar. Entering Jolene, there is space only to grab a Danish and order a filter coffee. Even the coffee is going to be served outside through the open window.

People all over Shoreditch gather around Jolene starting from 7am. The smell of freshly-baked sourdough bread, cinnamon rolls and other goods is mixed with the extract of coffee beans in the air. There are only a few benches to sit around, but it doesn’t stop customers. The ground works just fine.

Whenever I pass Jolene before noon, it always have empty shelves with just crumbs left. So now I was dedicated to finding out what is so special about this bakery when Shoreditch is not the place lacking pastries.

Follow Jolene bakery on Instagram

Waking up at 8am was easy as the thought of getting fresh croissants was already a motivation to get out of bed. I went to Jolene expecting to be the first customer. However, outside, one guy in a sportswear was sitting on the bench drinking his coffee, and a lady was walking her dog with a bag of bread in her other hand.

There were rhubarb and custard danish pastries, almond croissants, caramel buns, and much more. Each day, the bakery changes its options. I have decided to try pain duisse, which looked beautiful the same way as it sounds. Surprisingly, only two people were working. One takes orders, and the other gives them out through the open window.

Jolene’s cakes

The barista’s name is Mikaela. She has worked at the bakery for a couple of months now. When I asked her about her time at Jolene, she replied with a kind smile as she talked about her family.

“It is a meeting point for everyone around the neighbourhood. We connect people and make it in the sweet way possible”.

While making me a coconut latte, Mikaela was sharing her secret of a good cup of coffee that attracts everyone to return after trying it. “It’s all about making it with love. Nothing new,” said the barista, laughing. But, coming back next weekend, I found the answer myself. Jolene makes their customers feel special.

“I know mostly everyone’s order here. In the early morning, a couple takes two lattes of almond milk and three buns after dropping their daughter at the kindergarten—one to their daughter. The guy before you runs every morning, and after his workout, he drinks his cup of filtered coffee. That’s what ‘Jolene is about. It is a meeting point for everyone around the neighbourhood. We connect people and make it in the sweet way possible”.

I took a bite of my pain Suisse. It felt like the whole world had stopped. There was only me and crispy laminated pastry outside with a filling full of smooth almond creme and chocolate swirls. I looked over and saw the lady next to me having the same blast.

The mystery was solved. When you try Jolene once, you cannot leave it behind. You always find yourself coming back to feel again that warm atmosphere of the bakery in Shoreditch. I was about to leave when Mikaela approached me through the window and said, “see you tomorrow, coconut latte and one pain suisse”.

All photos by Kamila Sukhanova.

Magic Matcha: Exploring The Fascinating World of Matcha

From century-old tea ceremonies to modern trends, matcha has transcended time, enchanting everyone around the globe.

By Kamila Sukhanova

You probably live under a rock if you have never heard about matcha. Because even my little, 12 years old brother, goes to get his cup of matcha frappuccino after school. 

The greenish liquid beverage has gained massive popularity in recent times. As a result, there are more and more not special-oriented places that have started to serve matcha, which means only one thing. Matcha has found its place in the world alongside usual coffee, tea, and other beloved drinks.

According to Emerge Research, demand for matcha will not end any time soon. The global matcha market expects to rise to around seven billion dollars in 2030, where the last market value was approximately 3 billion dollars in 2021. So should we expect even more goods with green powder in the ingredients?

Besides the drink section, matcha took over baking goods, sports supplements and the beauty industry. For real matcha lovers, Le Labo has even created a fragrance reminding the comforting and grounding scent of matcha. 

The ingredients of The Matcha 26/ Photo Courtesy of Le Labo

Unfortunately, matcha often falls victim to biased judgments. Some people would intentionally be sceptical about trying just one sip of the green drink. Though matcha has found its place, it was the black sheep or, better to say, the green sheep of the beverage family before its peak. 

Matcha’s rich historical story often remains hidden in the shadows, and as it can be known poetically, shadows tend to keep secrets. When people think about the origin of green tea powder, they would immediately assume it to be the land of the rising sun. But there are a few details that are needed to be cleared up.

Going back through the annals of time, the history of tea first begins to unfold around 2700 BC in China. Back then, only representatives of elite Chinese society could have the luxury of enjoying tea. However, the arrival of one Buddhist changed everything. 

明菴栄西, Myon Eisai or commonly known as Yosai Zenji, which means Zen master Eisai, was an important figure in the introduction and spread of tea culture in Japan. During his transformative journey in China as a Buddhist priest, he immersed himself not only in the teachings of Zen Buddhism but the art of tea cultivation.

Myon Eisai/Photo courtesy of Scotttea

When it was time to go back home, zen master Eisai picked his knowledge on preparing powdered green tea along with some seeds. His mission was to share the benefits of discovered-powered tea with his home country. Master’s writings on the medicinal factors of tea influenced the growing tea culture in Japan, crowning him with the well-deserved title of the father of Japanese tea. 

As the seeds that Eisai brought from China would yield vibrant and flavorful leaves, he would wait for them to be harvested. So then, the leaves, carefully steamed and dried, would be ground into a smooth powder using a stone mill. 

Traditional matcha ceremony/Photo courtesy of MoyaMatcha

What’s unique about matcha is the amount of care and mindfulness put into making it. Each step carries the importance of the ceremonial preparation and serving of matcha. It is something we don’t pay enough attention to in modern times. 

“In Japan, it is all about ceremony. It is all about slowing down and taking time. Even when they wisk, its all about purpose. In the UK, people be drinking matcha like as they are zooming out the door to get to work. It is all about getting quick and natural energy boost”

Master Eisai’s method emphasised the act of whisking the powdered tea with hot water in a carefully crafted bowl. Not only it enhances the flavour, but it also brings up a sense of tranquillity. Over the centuries that have passed, the master’s traditional method of making matcha hasn’t changed its foundation.

You will need a few essential tools to archive the perfect cup of matcha and enhance your experience with it. A 天目茶碗 chawan is a wide matcha bowl in which matcha is prepared and served, typically made of ceramic or pottery. 

The important detail of the traditional process is using 茶筅 chasen, a specifically designed wisk. Then, you would also need 茶杓chashaku, a small bamboo scoop traditionally used to measure the appropriate amount of matcha powder. Making matcha with the use of these essential tools is a great way to not only experience the proper art of matcha making but also to cherish the memory of Myoan Eisai.

Matcha powder and Chasen from KINETA/Photo courtesy of Kineta

In a world where there are sommeliers with expertise in wine, it is expected to have tea sommeliers who possess an appreciation and expertise for the world of tea.

Leane Tilley, a tea sommelier and a founder of KINETA, began her journey with matcha on her first trip to Japan. Seeing huge green tea fields, brewing the leaves in an iron cast teapot and trying it just purely with water was an eye-opening experience for Leane. 

“I was surrounded by people in their 70s and 80s. They all had more energy than me, because we would climb mountains and going for tea haunting, and they would drink only matcha .It was the first time I’d tried it in such traditional form, in a traditional setting in a surrounding that really tea is all about, which is community sociability connection, connecting with people”, said Leane

The next journey was to bring that taste of matcha to home, facing its cultural difference. Leane told me, “in Japan, it is all about ceremony. It is all about slowing down and taking time. Even when they wisk, its all about purpose. In the UK, people be drinking matcha like as they are zooming out the door to get to work. It is all about getting quick and natural energy boost”.

However, matcha is well appreciated in both countries for its health benefits. The drink’s vitamins and minerals help boost our beta brainwaves. But, the main reason why people prefer to drink matcha is the state that we don’t want to have it, for example, after drinking coffee.

“I switched up to matcha for about a year now. I couldn’t bear again the awful anxiety I was getting after drinking a simple latte. My heart would pound like crazy and hands shake so much. With matcha I don’t get same affect…”, said a 24 years past coffee addict.

The natural caffeine in matcha interacts with our system when it bounds to the amino acid L-theanine. So after it drips and feeds into the system, we don’t get the hard hit that we usually have with coffee. 

The other reason matcha is so popular is the image she got from the media. From matcha lattes and desserts to matcha-infused skincare products, matcha has also become a segment of social media aesthetics. 

Influencers share aesthetically pleasing matcha content mainly on Tik Tok with captivating visuals, tasty descriptions and lively music in the background. “To be honest, after seeing beautiful tutorials on tik tok, I couldn’t help myself but get to try matcha for the first time, and I was disappointed in myself for not trying it earlier. I’ve got a full set ready for matcha now”, shared with me, a 29-year-old matcha lover.

I still remember how fast I frowned my face after trying matcha for the first time in Canada. But, here I am 4 years later, impossible to spend a week without buying a cup of matcha latte.

If you also tried matcha and didn’t like it, it’s probably because the powder wasn’t of good quality or the choice of milk was wrong. The taste of a matcha latte depends on what kind of milk you prefer to drink it. My advice is to choose a latte made of alternative milk. For example, choose coconut milk if you prefer it to be sweet or oat if you like a neutral but smooth taste.

London is very lucky with its variety of matcha places. As a person who loves drinking matcha almost every day, I have a list of my favourite places.

Café Kitsuné at Pantechnicon – If you want to try a delicious hot or iced matcha latte with coconut milk, you should go there. They also have sweet goods made of matcha, like this brownie with white chocolate pieces in it.

WA Patisserie in Covent Garden- They have not only matcha beverages, but they also have a whole section of matcha desserts and croissants.

JENKI Matcha – there, you can try something special. Besides sweet goodies, they make lavender and rose matcha lattes. You can even ask to add some collagen to the drink.

Katsute 100– They have the most authentic atmosphere of a Japanese cafe with a traditional matcha ceremony.

From the beginning of its birth in Japan to its modern-day glory, matcha has always been a symbol of wellness and cultural history. The green tea beverage captures the hearts of tea lovers and just health-considerate people worldwide. 

With its traditions, health benefits and aesthetic features, matcha will continue evolving and enchanting people with its unique taste. However, if you still tried to avoid the whole matcha obsession, I recommend you judge the drink yourself. Who knows, maybe after trying it at any of my recommendations, you will see green in a completely different way. 

The Beauty of Illustration in the Eye of Clair Rossiter

Clair Rossiter is a British-based freelance illustrator who draws colourful illustrations for children’s books, jigsaw puzzles, greeting cards, and even dining halls at The University of Oregon.

By Kamila Sukhanova

Have you ever wondered if paintings come alive the same way as in “Harry Potter”? You would think I’m crazy for believing in such a thing, but I actually do. To me, every illustration has its own live world in it, especially if Clair Rossiter illustrated it. 

Photo courtesy of Clair Rossiter

Her work delivers the ambience of portrayed places with vibrant and perfectly combined colours that brighten your eyes in a second. The small hidden details in the illustrations pique your curiosity, making you find each of them as Clair, in a way, hid them like Easter eggs. 

“To be an illustrator, you must love drawing in whatever drawing means to you. You might do something not traditional for this world. Even just making marks on the page, but please fully enjoy doing so.”

Eight thousand and fifty-six kilometres. This is the distance between London and Eugene, the city in the U.S. state of Oregon. The distance through which Clair was working on a massive 53 feet long illustration for the new dining hall at The University of Oregon.

Who would think one map illustration would appear as an invisible thread connecting two completely different continents? Definitely not Clair. The artist was surprised when the interior designer hired by the University of Oregon emailed her. 

The illustration on Etsy that led to the project. Photo courtesy of Clair Rossiter

Apparently, the university was redesigning its entire cafeteria. After carefully browsing Etsy, they finally found the right style for the wall art, which happened to be Clair’s work. But there was only one ‘but’.

“When they told me how big it was going to be. I was quite daunted because I had never worked at such a scale. It was the only project that I had ever had when I actually thought: ‘I might not be able to do this’…, said Clair

The illustrator had no team or anyone to help her with the project. So It was only her and the requested 53 feet, 4 inches long and 4 feet inches wide illustration to make. 

To create any commissioned work, you need a structured plan, a strong vision and, what’s important, skills to draw. Clair had everything ready for the big project except a fast-running computer and solid knowledge of Adobe Illustrator. 

The artist always got her work done in Photoshop for her usual illustrations. However, large-scale projects require the use of Adobe Illustrator, which Clair had to learn about briefly. That is when things got much more complicated, not to mention the time difference between U.K. and U.S.

Even though the illustrator was doing her best to figure out all the technical parts, it didn’t matter as the computer wasn’t still working well with large files. Clair would scan all her drawings and then try to layer them in Photoshop. However, the program would start lagging every half an hour and then crash in the end. Rossiter told me, “It was the only time when I had a deadline, and I realised it was going to be absolutely impossible to make it on time.”

As much as she hated to break her number one rule about missing the deadline, Clair has got another three weeks to finish the project. The constant fear that she wouldn’t make it was following the illustrator through the entire process. 

“I wanted to show the client that I was doing my best, meantime having my insides scrunched up. I thought, ‘He doesn’t know me. How is he going to trust me?’ Well, I was fortunate that he did”, said Rossiter

The freelancer put all her blood, sweat and tears into the project. The numerous troubles and obstacles she faced on her way were all worth it after seeing the final results with pure joy. Now students can admire the installed illustration in the food hall area of the University of Oregon. Sometimes the biggest challenges are the ones that level up you professionally and spiritually. 

Back to the time when Clair was little, somehow she knew while looking at the illustrations on the back of the cereal box that she would like to be the person who draws them. As she grew up, the desire didn’t disappear anywhere. Moreover, Clair admits, “It went to the point when I couldn’t imagine doing anything else, really. It has always been a fate”. 

Usually, parents have bits of doubts about their kids following art as a profession. Clair’s parents, on the contrary, gave nothing but full support to their daughter. 

Her foundation course the illustrator did at the London College of Communication. But, even before going there, Rossiter already fell in love with every course image and description that she could possibly find on the website.

“It was one of the gut things. I don’t have them as clear in my life, but it was there when I knew that I belonged here”, said Clair

As we know, expectations tend to be different from reality most of the time. Sadly, Clair wasn’t an exception. The illustrator found her time at the university very difficult.

There weren’t any problems with the student environment or anything close to that. It was more of the critiquing part that brought everything upside down. The illustrator told me, with her voice going a little bit quieter, “I had to grow up really quickly. So I would make things, and then the feedback from them would be so direct and harsh that I’d be crushed. I even remember crying a few times because of that”. 

Though everything didn’t go as Clair imagined, her time at LCC taught her the most important lessons – to be determined and never give up on your goals just because someone told you you are not good enough. Especially if you want “to be an illustrator, you need to love drawing in whatever drawing means to you. You might do something not traditional for this world. Even just making marks on the page, but please fully enjoy doing so”, said Rossiter.

Clair’s hard efforts to develop her work to another level paid off a bit later. The illustrator received her first properly paid commission during her third year at the university. The BBC History magazine was working on a food article about aphrodisiacs. So they were looking for someone to make illustrations of still-life arranged food in quite suggestive ways. 

As it was the first paid request, the artist was feeling excited and terrified at the same time. She couldn’t believe that a real person wanted to pay her to do the artwork for their publication. However, making a commissioned illustration is not the same as doing one for yourself.

When you work with an art director, one of the essential steps is to show them your drafts first, so you both would decide what works and what doesn’t for the project. At the same time, Clair used only ink to do all of her preliminary sketches. Not only did they not capture the final vision of the art, but they were also quite hard to understand for everyone except Rossiter herself.

Now she does pencil sketches and colours them digitally in order to produce a clear and understandable draft for her clients. Apart from that, there was another aspect that Clair hadn’t done before her first commission. The illustrator told me, barely holding her laugh, “I didn’t know how to invoice people at that stage. So I did all the work, sent it to the client and wondered, ‘Why they haven’t paid me yet? Then, the art director emailed me, saying that I needed to send him an invoice. I was so funny and naive to the business side of freelance”.

Clair’s first commissioned work for BBC History magazine/ photo Courtesy of Clair Rossiter

For some, doing freelance would sound very liberating. There is only you and no heads bossing around, which in a way, can be seen as the definition of freedom. But, most tend to forget what an actual responsibility you carry around freelancing. The financial side of it is something that you always keep in your head. As I mentioned, there is only one employee. Meaning there is only you in charge of getting enough work to pay your bills. 

Clair noticed the number of received projects had changed significantly since the pandemic. The illustrator promised to take as many requests as possible, including personal and commissioned ones. 

Now she has her schedule busy doing wedding stationeries, greeting cards, book covers and her favourite, maps. Yet, it is essential for Rossiter to keep everything in balance so that the burnout wouldn’t catch her. 

 “I think the hard bit of freelance is keeping up. On top of creating, you run a business, keep a record of finances, advertise your work, and answer emails, which doesn’t come all naturally. It takes a lot of time. You sacrifice time in order to do something you love”, said Clair

At the university, you get taught to meet deadlines, stay up late and produce high-quality products. But there is nothing about getting yourself overworked and losing all inspiration. Like many others, the illustrator had to teach herself how not to carry away. 

It is absolutely fine to rest, take a break, go for a walk and then produce excellent work. However, sometimes pressure from multiple deadlines causes panic attacks. At that moment, all you need is to stop and breathe. Learning that helped Clair a lot to see everything around her again.

Clair’s workplace/ Photo Courtesy of Clair Rossiter

Inspiration plays a significant role for anyone in creative industries. As part of freelance, you tend to spend a lot of time indoors, making you feel stale. When it comes to Rossiter, she finds inspiration for her illustrations in everything that she sees, listens and reads. 

From talking to other people or passing something beautiful, as an illustrator, she always collects everything in her head, even if it happens unconsciously. Clair told me, “You are kind of drawn to things that you visually like. Because you look at things, you love how they look, and then you draw them”. 

Finding their unique style is something that most illustrators hang on to. However, as Clair enjoyed working in different mediums by using ink, gouache and other sorts, she felt she couldn’t have only one style during her study years.

As the illustrator has begun to get more and more commissioned work, she realises that her style mainly consists of trusting her hands when she draws. From picking a pencil to sketching, it becomes the natural way of making art. All of this is what makes clients know what to expect.  

“I think when you get that awareness… the visual awareness, your ability to draw and your taste kind of come together, and then you’ve got a style. It takes quite a long time for your abilities to match what you like actually. You can’t get to the place you want to be in your head without doing all the drawing”, said Clair

Working freelance, especially in the art industry, makes you your own worst critic. If you look at your past works thinking how on earth you were commissioned to do that, then you are going in the right direction. From Clair’s point of view, it shows your growth, which is so much better rather than staying still.

Clair’s illustration for one of Crayola Books from 2017-2019/ Photo courtesy of Clair Rossiter

Though being an illustrator can have its own ups and downs. It is important to have a reminder of why artists become ones. To remember the opportunity they have to gift the world an escape from reality within their drawings. Because without it, life would lose its colours, and everything would look like a black-and-white movie. 

Clair Rossiter is living proof of that. After 12 years, she still has passion in her eyes for doing the thing she loves the most, which can be felt through all of her work. The light and energy coming from her illustrations magically invite everyone who looks at them to become a part of the drawings.

Feature image courtesy of Clair Rossiter. To visit her website, click here.

TikTok aesthetics are the trendsetters of our time

From being a just dance app, TikTok is now a leading platform for everyone in the fashion industry. Trends get created faster than Netflix making new sequels to ‘The Kissing Booth’

By Kamila Sukhanova

‘Star girl’, ‘clean girl’, ‘ballerina girl’ or even ‘pink pilates princess’. You could imply that those are the names of some famous cartoon characters that little girls loved to watch on TV alongside ‘Totally Spice’ and get inspired to be like them.

Photo courtesy of @olafflee on TikTok.

Well, if you thought so, then you have got it close. But, instead of TV, there is Tik Tok, and instead of cartoon characters, those are the names of popular aesthetics that young women on Tik Tok try to follow.

It is not so surprising, as we have already seen the same situation with aesthetics from Tumblr a decade ago.

2014 Tumblr-era still counts as the first ‘OG’ aesthetic that made the Internet go crazy. At that time, it was unexplainable how everyone from that generation decided to wear big combat boots from Dr Martins, dye the ends of their hair pink and try smokey eyes as Effy did in ‘Skins’. 

Photo courtesy of @laurennnxx on Tumblr.

All of that is simply because Tumblr users have decided Lana Del Ray or The Lorde’s songs gave off that kind of dark romanticised vibe, and they wanted to fit that aesthetic. 

Time goes on, but what didn’t change is the influence that all these past and present social media platforms have got on the fashion industry. From thirty minutes YouTube videos to 15 seconds Tik Toks, alongside being users, young women are firstly seen as potential customers. 

However, Tik Tok is different from what we had before. It is a fast-scrolling app, so trends tend to get created easily. All need is for the algorithm to show one fashion piece more than five times in ‘for your page’, and the rest is done by users themselves, who buy those products, post them and make them even more viral. 

Photo courtesy of @mackenziekroh on TikTok

Aesthetics on Tik Tok include particular fashion or beauty items that allow one to achieve a specific vibe or image by buying them. For instance, searches for linen pants increased 66 per cent in May on Poshmark, thanks to “coastal grandma”, another aesthetic that was trendy this summer, mentioned The BOF in ‘How to Keep Up With TikTok’s Lightning-Fast Trend Cycle’.

Young girls now tend to buy something that was already featured on Tik Tok. For example, Zhaniya is a fashion blogger from Boston in her early 20s. She actively films her ‘get ready with me’ Tik Toks, which get more than 4 thousand views each time. 

I’m really influenced by Tik Tok for any kind of fashion trends. When I see a pretty girl wearing something, I would be like, ‘I really need this as well’. Most of the time, I would end up buying that”, says Zhaniya

Though, previously it was inclusivity to hear first about the new trends. People not in the industry would find out about them only days after fashion weeks passed or some expert’s opinion was published in fashion magazines like Vogue.

Whereas now, not only people got the accessibility to find out in seconds about the latest fashion news through Tik Tok, but also to be the ones deciding what style should be trending and what items should be called ‘IT’ for the new season. TikTok changed the game in the fashion industry, whether you are part of it or not.

Who is the person behind the window displays?

If the window display is a fairytale, then Michelle De Neys is the fairy godmother who creates the fairytale and makes it magical.

By Kamila Sukhanova.

Have you ever felt that something is so beautiful that it takes your breath away for a second? The way your eyes start to spark when you stop suddenly walking in the middle of the road. Almost making you feel like a little kid who saw for the first the magic, the shimmer and the power of boutique windows. 

Photo courtesy of Michelle De Neys.

We all know the power the right decorated display could hold. If you have watched ‘Confessions of a Shopaholic’, you will remember the beginning of the movie. When the main character, Rebecca Bloomwood, says, “When I looked into shop windows, I saw another world. A dreamy world full of perfect things”

But who are those people that are capable of creating these dreamy worlds? The answer is simple. It’s window dressers, the ones like Michelle De Neys. 

“I always dress the windows, so I stand outside for twenty minutes and watch people. I think you have something like three seconds to people captivate the window. If people just walk past…I know I’ve done my job wrong”

Michelle has been in the industry for 35 years as a visual merchandiser and window dresser. Her journey started pretty early when Michelle’s parents wouldn’t allow her to get academic knowledge at college. For a 16-year-old girl, it was the moment to listen to her heart and understand what she truly wanted. 

Young Michelle didn’t give up. Moreover, she was so determined that she sent letters to around 60 companies. The action wasn’t left with no response. At that time, the company, ‘Sock Shop’, took her as an apprentice, and she began travelling around the UK doing their windows, still being 16.

Michelle didn’t stop there. At 19, a young visual merchandiser decided to go self-employed. She said, “I didn’t make any money, but I had the greatest time. I did a lot for record companies, including backstage stuff for Madonna and George Michael. It was only £50 job, which is not a lot of money. But I absolutely loved it”

There should be something that pushes you to have such courage to follow your dreams at a young age. For Michelle, it all started with her granddad. He was a dispatch rider who began to work for the British Shoe Corporation after the war.

Photo courtesy of ‘MDN‘.

At the British Shoe Corporation, Michelle’s grandfather was responsible for making displays. He would create with his team a mock-up window at the head office and then send the pictures to individual shops, which made him the first person to do such things. So it is not surprising that Michelle was inspired to follow his path as a window dresser. 

“Windows should always tell a story, and that should also flow into the store as well. It’s really important”, says De Neys

There is no secret recipe for creating a successful window. It’s all about the vision and the client’s requirements. For Michelle, it is essential to have a perfect balance of both. As a visual merchandiser, she prefers to have her displays over the top, dramatic even. Some of her ideas go viral, as happened for the MINI UK window at the Olympic Stadium, where Michelle added Union Jack hair on mannequins to make them less plain. 

Photo courtesy of Michelle De Neys.

It is impossible for the display to turn out perfectly without knowing what’s behind the brand. There are essential parts like colours, materials, style and taste that need to be figured out in order to create something magical. Something that could grab the best expressions attracted to the window. Michelle told me, “I always dress the windows, so I stand outside for twenty minutes and watch people. Because I think you have something like three seconds to people captivate the window. If people just walk past…I know I’ve done my job wrong. But, If they stop and they are looking, I know I’ve done it right.” 

When it comes to ideas, there is an unstoppable chain for people who are in the creative industry. You are constantly searching for inspiration, which for some, like Michelle, is easy to find. She would take pictures of things that she would find interesting for her future projects during her walking days in London. 

One of her favourite windows that she did was for a clothes shop without a proper budget. Michelle decided to buy loads of ribbons and glue them at the top and the bottom with the spectrum of colour going across.

It was one of the best windows. I have done so simple but stunning. I can remember going to central, and it was copied all over London”, says De Neys

Photo courtesy of Michelle De Neys. ‘The window display that Michelle did for Nespresso’.

The first big project is always memorable. Being nervous at the interview is a normal thing, even if it is with BMW. What’s important is to stand on your values and not be scared to share them. 

At that time, Michelle didn’t have a team, so she was up against two other major companies.

However, it didn’t even matter when she started to deliver her work ethic focusing more on the people, the product and the vision. BMW chose Michelle, and their partnership has already been on for 20 years.

Photo courtesy of Michelle De Neys.

But it wasn’t just the first project with a high-end brand. For Michelle, it was proof that she managed to achieve what 16 years old Michelle couldn’t even possibly dream of. She said, 

It’s a passion for me. I love what I do, and after 35 years, I’m not bored with it even for a bit. I genuinely love it every day”

Currently, Michelle is focused on visual merchandising consulting and her company, ‘MDN‘. As her path began earlier than usual, De Neys decided to mentor people and share her knowledge gotten from all these years as a window dresser. She told me,

“When I was younger, I had the old one who took me under their wing and showed me the ways. Now, that’s kind of what I’m doing. It’s all about what you give and get back with kindness”

Seeing beautiful window displays would be different from now on. They would not only capture your attention but also make you wonder if one of them was dressed by the talented Michelle De Neys herself. 

Rakaya Fetuga: the magic behind the poems

Photo courtesy of Rakaya Fetuga.

Rakaya leaves the audience in awe with her heart-touching poems that inspire them to believe in themselves.

By Kamila Sukhanova

The courtyard of St. James’s Church attracted visitors and passersby from the whole Picadilly with its multiple beautiful voices performing that day. The gospel choir, or as they call themselves, ‘Soul at Saint James’, prepared the program by combining their songs with a poetry reading.

After each poem, there were seconds of silence as a way to comprehend what was heard that made the courtyard feel the light not only from the sun but from the author as well.

When the applause began to burst, you couldn’t help but look at the crowd and see how it felt like the world had stopped for a minute in their eyes. There was only them in the presence of Rakaya Fetuga, the person behind those touching poems.

“When you speak about things that are personal to you, you’re able to connect to the universal human experience that joins everyone”

Rakaya was raised in an artistic family. With her father being a musician, she was always around him when he would work as a DJ and produce multiple beats. It was one of those creative jam sessions when at that time, a three-year-old girl was singing and making up lyrics to her father’s songs.

Though poetry wasn’t always in her life, it did start with love towards words and playing around with them. As Rakaya would fall into an imaginary world of books, she felt the need to create one by writing fictional stories and then doing the storytelling to her friends. The more she did that, the more she got better at it.

Shaking hands, multiple ‘what ifs running in the mind, and the whole body freezing from feeling nervous are common symptoms of performing in front of people for the first time.

During her teens, Rakaya was a part of the youth theatre, where she participated in plays and shared the stage with a group of drama students.

When she started attending events like an open mic to hear other artists, it inspired her to share her work as well. However, performing alone is quite a different experience, especially after getting used to having the whole drama cohort by your side on the stage.

Playing a character or being someone else in the performance is not as personal as having something that you had written shared with people. “Showing my vulnerability through poetry, I think, was quite scary at the beginning”, said Fetuga.

Coming from a Muslim background, Rakaya looked after other Muslim artists, who inspired her to try and bring every part of herself into the art. She was able to include things like gender, religion, ethnicity, and anything about who she is and not have them contradict her art.

I’ve got a friend called Sukina Noor, who’s a poet. She studied poetry as healing for, like, mental health and trauma, and she showed me that it definitely could be a way to heal”

For Rakaya, poetry is especially a great space to do that as it goes hand in hand with spiritual topics. It allows us to explore deeper things that we most likely wouldn’t bring into everyday conversation.

There is no more magical moment during live poetry than having everyone’s attention and focus drawn to one thing. Fetuga shares,

I’ve even had experiences where I’ve been performing poetry, and then looking at someone’s expression in the audience made me feel emotional and made me want to cry as well”

Photo courtesy of Rakaya Fetuga.

It would have been probably hundreds of times already reading and seeing these words that she has written. However, that exact moment of vulnerability, where she gives energy to the listeners through her poems, and they receive it with something changing in their eyes, makes it moving.

Especially living in London, where everyone gets on the train with thousands of people, and no one looks each other in the eye, would raise a question of how it is even possible to shake up the crowd. But, “when you speak about things that are personal to you, you’re able to connect to the universal human experience that joins everyone,” said Rakaya.

Writing is always going to be a companion for Rakaya during her trip called life. Though it wouldn’t be only poems all the time. The poet is focused on writing her first novel. In a couple of years, we will witness the world discovering books by Rakaya Fetuga that would allow them to explore the magic behind her poems.

ANALYSIS OF ‘JULIA FOX IS THE CELEBRITY WE DESERVE’ BY VANITY FAIR

It was not hard to notice how Julia Fox’s name has been all over the media space and tabloids since the new year. The pictures of her attending the Schiaparelli show with black eye makeup made the internet go crazy. But did all the attention come directly from her current relationship with the one and only Kanye West? We don’t even need to discuss that to say yes. We may witness history repeating itself with how Kanye changes the media representation of his girlfriend the same way as he did to Kim Kardashian.

Kenzie Bryant wrote an article for Vanity Fair on how Julia Fox appeared to us as ‘an internationally famous woman’. Bryant lists Julia’s past before meeting Kanye. When she says how important it is that Fox’s fame makes something for New York as she was a downtown icon, you can’t help but wonder if the article was planned to feel so forced. Kenzie Bryant gives reasons why a new hot topic, Julia Fox, is different from other celebrities by how open she talks about her life. It is not surprising behaviour to Kanye to change the whole perspective of the couple by giving his ex and his present girlfriend massive makeovers. Vanity Fair has never been seen as the type of media publication-ready to accept publishing paid articles to put someone in a good light. However, this specific article gives certain questions as if Vanity Fair believes in Julia Fox becoming an ‘It’ celebrity or the magazine’s publisher is on a speed dial with Kanye discussing what to highlight.   

Interview with Zoey Siciliano on her mental health healing through rugby.

For Zoey Siciliano, rugby is everything. It helped her to not only build strength but also to cope with anxiety. Besides her studies at Seneca College in Toronto, Zoe is part of the ‘Seneca Stings’ rugby team. Playing with a goal to get to nationals, she faces severe anxiety caused by stress from school and personal relationships. Zoe Siciliano shared what it is like to deal with mental health issues through a challenging sport like rugby.

How did you get your start playing rugby? 

‘I started playing rugby in high school in grade 10. I was playing soccer and I was too aggressive for soccer, so I ended up quitting the soccer team and started playing rugby. It was definitely my game. It felt right to play and I was already athletic before, so playing rugby was natural to me.’

You said it felt right. What felt right? 

‘It felt right just being on the field, just playing. It just felt like the sport I was destined to play. I wanted to be an Olympian. I wanted to be a track star. I wanted to play soccer professionally, basketball professionally as well, but playing rugby and being on the field just felt like the sport I was always meant to play.’

How is your situation with mental health?

‘This semester alone I’ve had two mental breakdowns already and it’s definitely been a struggle to go to class, get up in the morning. Sometimes, even just to go to practices, it’s been a struggle. When I was trying out for Team Canada, I didn’t end up making it and that came as well to my mental health struggles. I didn’t think I was good enough.’

What are some of the struggles playing rugby helped you overcome? 

‘Well, recently, I broke up with my boyfriend. That’s definitely been a big struggle. This year for this season at Seneca, I really told myself, “Put everything you’ve got. Just don’t think about anything like that. Just put everything into this season. Play well and try to come up with gold metal.” And that’s exactly what I did. Unfortunately, we didn’t win gold. We won bronze, but still, we won a medal and was still a good experience. ‘

Does it offer you some kind of distraction?

Being on the field it takes everything away. When I’m on the field I’m a different person, and I’m like not here, and it’s not reality, and it’s better sometimes to be that way. I like that rugby is my outlet for that.’

Metro Pol’s Press Conference: what’s new on flight US 132 investigation?

On November 30th, The Special Operations Unit of Metro Pol held a press conference regarding the AAIB (Air Accidents Investigation Branch) ongoing investigation of flight US 132 by British Transport Police. William Stuart, the representative of Metro Pol, confirmed the cause of the fault was damage by a drone collision at the press conference. An electrical short was a result of a small fire that disabled both engines on the US Airbus A360, which led to an emergency landing on the Thames last Tuesday. The only option was to have an emergency evacuation on the river Thames to avoid fatalities, which ended up being the safest decision as there were no severe casualties. Two passengers needed to be treated by paramedics with minor injuries, and only one passenger was taken to Queens Hospital in Romford due to chest pains.  

At the press conference, Metro Pol shared that there are a few things they are focusing on at the moment. First, the organisation works hard to give all its support and safety to passengers by providing domestic services to those at home in the UK and monitoring people with drones. Second, Metro Pol prioritises removing fuel tonks from the water to minimise any environmental impact after the plane accident.    

The investigation of flight US 132 is still ongoing. Metro Pol reported that two people were arrested, and both were questioned as they were involved in the drone collision. The drone itself was bought in the Essex shop named ‘WixStore’. These types of drones are mainly used for civilian purposes, stated William Stuart. The police don’t know yet was the motive of that act or if it related to a terrorist attack. As for why no one could prevent the drone from being on the territory, Metro Pol said that ‘people were using the drone way far from the airport. Therefore, it was unable to control’.    

Next, for the investigation, is to verify all details of the plane accident and see the whole picture. Then, the police will tell when they would share facts of the case with the public. Metro Pol shared that they do not take it as another situation, and they are even more determined not to let this accident happen again. However, at this stage, nothing is clear yet. Many details need to be investigated. Further information is yet to come.